Tatacoa desert is
situated in the northern part of the Huila region in Colombia – the
closest city is Neiva, with the picturesque town of Villavieja an
hour from the desert itself. It's very hot, so if you go remember to
pack shorts and plenty of sunscreen!
Our bus from Armenia
cost 40,000 COP each and only took 7 hours because the minibus driver
was a maniac. There are a ton of companies that travel there, so
check them all out and don't be afraid to try and get a discount (we
did, because we booked four tickets at once). There are fairly
regular truck-taxis going from the Neiva bus station to Villavieja
and then on to Tatacoa, and it costs 15, 000 COP for a one-way trip
(which lasts an hour).
Tatacoa is basically a
road, with a few hostels along it. Villavieja is the closest place
for actual shops, and there are nice hotels there, but they're more
expensive than the places in Tatacoa. We stayed in a hostel called
Sol de Verano for two nights, which has rooms available for 20,000
COP a night (which is VERY cheap), although they charge for meals
(breakfast was around 6,000 COP and lunch/dinner were something like
10-12,000 COP each, but the food was really nice).
Our room slept four
(two single beds and a king bed), had a working fan at night (it was
stifling in the room, despite it not been entirely closed-off from
the outside world) and the toilets and showers (with cold water) were
outside (but private).
The desert has a few
different areas to walk around, though we stuck to the 'red' part and
easily killed a couple of hours during the morning then another
couple of hours in the evening. There's a ton of bird life in Tatacoa
and, if you're lucky like us, you'll get to eyeball some lizards too.
The return journey cost
another 15,000 COP each, with another group discount of 40,000 COP
each to get back to Armenia (which took a bit longer, but mainly
because it was a proper coach and we stopped at a pandera (sort of
like a service station, but not fancy at all) for maybe 30 minutes so
everyone could stretch their legs and get a bite to eat.
So, looking at
transport and hostel costs only, you'd be spending around 150,000 COP
(with meals extra). We also spent a night in Neiva itself, but I
wouldn't recommend that, mainly because the city is really hot and
there's bugger-all to do there, other than check out a few okay bars
and a blindingly-lit pool hall.
Oh! And one last thing,
that was impossible to capture in the video or in photographs: the
night sky in Tatacoa is incredible for star-gazing. There's an
observatory there that charges, I think, 10,000 COP, but we just sat
out in the hostel car park after 10pm (when all the lights were
turned off to save electricity) and got to marvel at one of the most
beautiful sights on the planet – you can even see the hazy glow of
galaxies! I tell you, it's astounding, and if you only go to Tatacoa
for one thing, go for that.
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